Here’s a rough translation of two very useful lists I found floating around the henro trail.
Shikoku 88 Temples (Directions to Zenkonyado, Tsuyado, Camping places etc)
Shikoku 88 Temples Catalog of Free Lodging for Walking Henro, Sept 2008 edition
The best lists are usually photocopied, scribbled on, creased and tattered. These are the ones I have, lovingly annotated by bona fide members of the “nojuku henro network”.
How to get one?
If you’re all decked out in henro gear and a suitably large backpack, at some point you’re going to get stopped by a 回りぱなし henro (typically scruffy older dude, been around many times, endlessly circling the island) who cheerfully asks if you’ve got THE LIST. If yes, he waves you off, confident in your ability to survive. If no, he’ll either lend you his to copy, or actually give it to you (proof of master nojuku henro status – he’s got it all memorized already!)
Here I’ve compiled the two lists, and also added some new places/comments. Places I stayed in/spent time in are in bold – they’ll be linked once the posts are written. Cheap henro lodging is also listed. Information is unverified, as things always change. That’s part of the adventure! 🙂
LODGING LIST (as of May 2009)
Zenkonyado: Free/cheap lodging provided by locals for pilgrims.
Tsuyado: Free lodging for pilgrims provided by temples, usually huts or other buildings in temple compounds.
|~ #1||(Near Naruto whirlpool) Namasute Guesthouse. ¥2000 for henro. (food settai provided) 090-7780-1273.|
|(Near Naruto Station, Kousouku Naruto etc) Fujiichigen. Has display of free lodging from #1-88, provides car settai. ¥2000. 090-5717-9096.|
|#5 ~ #6||溝渕工務店 (construction company). ¥300. (water, toilet)|
|Temple #6||Tsuyado. (2nd floor of bell tower/temple gate)|
|Temple #8||Tsuyado. (in parking lot. 3 tatami.)|
|#10 ~ #11||Kamo no Yu Onsen. (henro huts, free bicycles, discount on entry to onsen)|
|#11 ~ #12||Zenkonyado along main road just before Ryuusui-an [柳水庵]|
|Temple #12||Hut in mikan orchard. (ask permission at temple, may not be possible)|
|#12 ~ #13||5min walk along car road from Jousan-an, place to stay at Doushinzen Dojo. 090-2829-4260.|
|Hut. After the bridge at Kamiyama Onsen. Another hut in the parking lot.|
|Abe-san’s Zenkonyado before Nabeiwasou. (Look out for white handwritten signboards.) ¥1000.|
|#16 ~ #17||Sakae Taxi. 088-642-1391. Along Route 6. Ask around, everyone knows it.|
|#17 ~ #18||Shinmachi Onsen. Can’t stay, but free entry for walking henro.|
|Henro rest huts in front of Awa Odori Kaikan. (super exposed in a large city – not recommended unless you’re really desperate)|
|#19 ~ #20||JR Tachie Station – unmanned station. (water, toilet)|
|寿康庵, about 4km from Temple #19. Prefab building, water, toilet, tatami. Look for signs at an abandoned bus stop.|
|#20 ~ #21||At foot of Temple #20. Can camp at school ruins (toilet). Also a hut a little further ahead.|
|#21 ~ #22||Michi-no-eki Wajiki. (toilet, water.)|
|#22 ~ #23||Zenkonyado immediately after Temple #22. Light work in exchange for stay. Kikuya-san, 0884-36-2136.|
|#23||Refurbished bus about 1km before #23 on Route 55. Call Hashimoto Restaurant at 0884-77-0880. (Food settai, water, toilet)|
|#23 ~ #24||Tsuyado at Bangai 4, Saba Daishi.|
|Kaifu town. Settai place with lodging. 0884-73-2183.|
|Rest place in front of Kaifu Station. (nearby supermarket, water/toilet at station). Also a Daishido about 1km away from Kaifu bus stop.|
|Ikumi. Can stay in Meitoku-ji.|
|Sakibama. Various places – bus stop, under the bridge, Daishido.|
|#25||Bridge at beach just before Temple#25. Water from park in front.|
|#26 ~ #27||Various places – hut at Kiragawa river. Rest place in parking lot of Kira Town Machinami-kan. Michi-no-eki Muroto. Michi-no-eki Tano. Park and bus stops in Nahari.|
|Temple #27||Tsuyado. 088738-5495. Call to confirm availability as it’s on top of a mountain.|
|#27 ~ #28||Hagimori-san’s zenkonyado near Nishibun Station. 0887-33-3762. Call ahead.|
|Konan City Kagami henro hut.|
|#28 ~ #29||Nishioka zenkonyado. 088-863-3715. ¥300.|
|#29 ~ #30||Kamohara henro hut. (water, toilet)|
|#30 ~ #31||Godaisan viewing platform. (water, toilet at #31)|
|Temple #34||Tsuyado. Must stamp book.|
|#35 ~ #36||Hut before Tsukaji Tunnel. (water, toilet, vending machines)|
|#36 ~ #37||Susaki henro hut. Plaza near Susaki fire station. (water, toilet) Michi-no-eki Susaki.|
|Kageno Station. Free showers at Yuingu Shimanto. Michi-no-eki Aguri Kubokawa.|
|#37||Hut at back of temple, ask permission. 0880-22-0376.|
|#37 ~ #38||Kannondo right after Ita Tunnel. I-no-misaki Onsen nearby.|
|Dashido at Takejima. Daishido near Kotsuka Station. Campground at Shimoda.|
|Hut at Drive-in Suisha in Tosa-shimizu City. (water, toilet) Rest area at Iburi Port. (water, toilet, electricity)|
|Zenkonyado at Shimonokae. (Near the school, look out for signs at the bridge). Campground next to the school.|
|Kanehira-san’s Zenkoyado at Tsuro. ¥500. Additional ¥500 for dinner. 0880-82-7304.|
|#38 ~ #39||[Mihara course] Nishitani Daishido at Jizo Pass. Campground in Mihara. Huts in area near the dam.|
|[Tsukiyama Shrine course] Michi-no-eki Tosa-shimizu, Sukumo. Shrine at Kanaezaki. (water, toilet) Waiting room at Higashi-sukumo Station.|
|#39 ~ #40||Matsuo Daishido near Matsuo Pass (bring your own water). Roof near sports complex above Ipponmatsu Onsen. (water, toilet)|
|#40 ~ #41||De ai 21 at Ainan Town Office. Campground at Sunokawa, with onsen nearby. Huts after Arashi Post Office.|
|Hut just before Matsuo Tunnel. (water, toilet)|
|Hut at Ishimaru Park, between Lawson and Sunkus near Kitamura River. Iyomiyanoshita Station. Michi-no-eki Mima.|
|#42 ~ #43||Zenkonyado Utsumi-no-ie. ¥2500. (inclusive of 2 meals, laundry, bath) 0894-62-0227. Michibiki Daishido (only one person). Rest hut just before Hanaga Pass. Unomachi Station. Park near #43.|
|#43 ~ #44||Tsuyado at Toyogabashi (Bangai 8). (onsen, supermarket, coin laundry nearby). Can also sleep under bridge (inform the temple).|
|Michi-no-eki Uchiko. Zenkonyado after Nagaoka Tunnel (Tamiya-san). Daishido near bus stop on main road of Hiwata Pass.|
|Doyama Daishido at Oda-cho. Borrow the key at Kobata udon restaurant.|
|#44 ~ #45||Rest hut in front of Kokumin Shukusha Furuiwasou. (Onsen, coin laundry, toilet). Bus stops in the area. Rest hut at Furusato Ryoko Mura.|
|#47 ~ #48||Fudahajime Daishido, ask for permission at the telephone number given (water, toilet). Hut at Jou-no-fuchi Park (water, toilet).|
|#51 ~ #52||(Near Dogo Onsen) Fujiya Guesthouse, ¥2000 (080-1750-5454). Park at Taisho-gun Shrine (water, toilet).|
|#53 ~ #54||(Asanami) Daishido, get key from next-door shop Hamada Pump (after 5pm). Tsuyado at Aoki Jizo (warning – this place is supposed to be haunted).|
|Temple #58||Tsuyado (with shower, onsen and laundry).|
|#59 ~ #60||JR Iyo-sakurai Station. Huts at Michi-no-eki Imabari (onsen nearby). (Iyo-miyoshi) Tsuyado at Koumeiji, near Higiri-Daishi (bathhouse nearby).|
|Hut at Ozaki Yabata Shrine. Hut at start of mountain path to #60.|
|#63 ~ #64||JR Ishizuchi Station (water, toilet).|
|Temple #64||Hut in the garage (onsen nearby).|
|#64 ~ #65||Hagio-an Zenkonyado (Takahashi-san), about 12.5km from #64. Free bento at the Hoka-hoka-tei nearby. Place to camp about 300m north of the Daily Yamazaki combini at Funaki (water, toilet).|
|(Doi) Hut at Enmei-ji (water, toilet). Konjaku-an Zenkonyado at Doi Station, ¥1000 (food, shower, laundry provided). 080-3055-1487.|
|Mitani Daishido (Ishikawa-san). Hut at Mishima Park. Hut at Togawa Park.|
|#65 ~ #66||Hirayama Bus Stop, Handa Rest Area.|
|Temple #66||Tsuyado at Miroku-do inside temple compounds|
|#66 ~ #67||Shirafuji Daishido (ask permission from Ando-san), on the trail after Shin-Ike.|
|#68 ~ #69||Place to stay above #69. Hut at lookout point (toilet).|
|#70 ~ #71||Place to stay at area near bridge before #70 (not verified). (Takase) Free onsen at Takase Onsen, 1km after turning into Daiichi Hospital. Hut at Iyadani Onsen Fureai Park Mino (water, toilet).|
|Temple #71||Place to stay (unverified).|
|Temple #75||Ask at the temple office for Zenkonyado.|
|#76 ~ #77||(Tadotsu-cho) Zenkonyado Mandara. 0877-32-0071.|
|#77 ~ #78||Horie Park behind the cemetary at the end of the street past the train crossing west of #77.|
|#81 ~ #82||Hut (water, toilet). Another hut downhill (water, toilet not verified).|
|#83 ~ #84||Hut in park at behind Ichinomiya Middle School (water, toilet).|
|#84 ~ #85||Hut at the back of Temple #84 (water, toilet). Place to stay near Yakuri Cable Station (water, toilet).|
|#85 ~ #86||Can stay at Rokuman-ji (unverified).|
|#87 ~ #88||Kametsuru Park. Maeyama Camp Ground. Hut in front of Henro Cultural Exchange Salon (water, toilet).|
|#88||Hut at the bus stop (water, toilet).|
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im planning to cycle the 88 route
anyone have any comments about cyclists using the free accomodation?
I was just going to ask the same thing. Did you get any info?
I did the pilgrimage by bike in Mar-Apr 2010 and never encountered any problem using henro accommodations. If anything, people i met seemed more amazed that i was on a bike. They seemed to think it was harder than walking. Climbing some of the hills, perhaps it was. But anyway, you won’t have a problem.
I did a pilgrimage by bike at the same time as you, Damian, and I had no problems, either! Locals did indeed think going by bike was impressive, for some reason. I would just bring my bike into the hut or bus stop or wherever I was sleeping for the night, or I’d lock it to something if I was sleeping at a train station. It can be hard going up some hills, and kind of dangerous going down others, but I loved going by bike and had the best month of my life doing it. Thanks so much for posting this guide. It helped me immensely on my trip!
That’s funny that any sane person could think biking around the island was remotely as hard as walking it. I guess that would make driving it the toughest way of all!
In three weeks I will be doing the pilgrimage on the bike. I think that in some ways riding the bike will make the trip easier and for sure faster. Pushing a bike with all my gear up to temples 12, 44, 60 or 66 might be a little harder. I can’t wait to find out. I’m 59 and I’m hoping to make it in 20 days. The time will tell.
Thank you for a fantastic info.
IIRC, the final climb to temple 27 was the hill that beat me. You might want to add that one to your “watch” list 🙂 Good luck on your ride, Les. Are you blogging your pilgrimage anywhere?